Chadick Farms
Answers to Every Question
Our Promises To You
Where can I buy Chadick Farms Crapemyrtles?
What size plants does Chadick Farms sell?
How much do the Crapemyrtles cost?
Do you charge sales tax?
Do you ship year-round?
Where is Chadick Farms? How do I visit your nursery?
Do you sell wholesale to landscapers, designers or other nurseries?
What is your guarantee or warranty?
My plants arrived damaged - what do I do now?
Is it Crape Myrtle or Crepe Myrtle? What about Crapemyrtle?
Will a Crapemyrtle throw seeds everywhere and take over my yard?
How do I choose the right Crapemyrtle?
When is the best time to plant my Crapemyrtle?
How and when can I move a Crapemyrtle?
When should I prune my Crapemyrtle?
Crape Murder - how do I stop the madness?
Where can I get a red Crapemyrtle?
Why do actual flower colors vary from the descriptions?
Why do other Crapemyrtles bloom earlier than mine?
What is the dusty-white or gray coating on my Crapemyrtle leaves or buds?
What are the tiny yellowish-green insects on the leaves of my Crapemyrtle?
What about all this sticky stuff on the leaves?
Without using pesticides, how do I control unwanted insect pests in my yard?
What type of fertilizer should I use on my Crapemyrtle?
What happens to my Crapemyrtle in the winter?
What do I do with my hanging basket Crapemyrtle in the winter?
On your chart, why is there such a large range in mature plant size?
I think my Crapemyrtle might be dead - what next?
- We promise:
- To us, you are not some anonymous, distant customer. Each inquiry and order receives our individual attention. If you call, you'll always talk with either Shirlene or Ricky. Chadick Farms is a very small company and we like it this way - you will, too.
- We will ship you healthy, high quality, nice-looking plants. Perhaps in the past you were disappointed with plants you purchased by mail or online - you will not have this experience with us. We want you to be happy with your plants, and we want you to tell your families, friends and neighbors about Chadick Farms Crapemyrtles. We will only send you plants that we, as a customer, would like to receive.
- We don't use herbicides or pesticides. We mulch to control weeds, and hand-pull the occasional weed that does appear. We're certain you will receive a few pillbugs or other benign insects or arthropods in your plants' soil. A few leaves may be chewed. We'd rather send a few hitchhikers with your plants than expose you to poisons. Your Crapemyrtles don't mind, and we hope you don't mind, either.
Where can I buy Chadick Farms Crapemyrtles?
What size plants does Chadick Farms sell?
How much do the Crapemyrtles cost?
Do you charge sales tax?
Please contact us directly to purchase or to ask questions. We accept all major credit cards through PayPal (and you do not need a PayPal account in order to pay us), as well as your personal check. Email or call us (817-312-4583) any time, or if you want US to call YOU, just send an email with the best time to reach you.
Our Crapemyrtles are grown in "trade gallon" (also known as #1) sized pots, and are leafy with fully-developed root systems. "Trade gallon" pots hold 2.60 quarts / 2.46 liters - significantly less than one gallon. We've found that these smaller-sized pots are easier to work with and to ship. It's also easier for you to plant - a much smaller hole to dig. With proper care, your Chadick Farms Crapemyrtle will attain mature size in approximately 3 years.
We also stock some 2.3 gallon (also known as #2) sized varieties, these are second year plants. We do not ship these larger pots, please contact us for local delivery.
Crapemyrtle prices do not include shipping costs or sales tax. In an effort to reduce shipping costs, we ship plants on the dry side, and the 1 gallon-sized plants weigh approximately 30 ounces each. We charge actual shipping cost only - no handling or other fees are added. We'll ship via your instructions, however if you don't have a preference, we will use Priority Mail. We only ship on Monday, so you normally will have your plants by Thursday. If you're in the Fort Worth area, we'll be happy to make other delivery arrangements with you.
| 1 plant - 1 GAL (each) | $ | 12.50 |
| 2-6 plants - 1 GAL (each) | $ | 11.00 |
| 7+ plants - 1 GAL (each) | $ | 9.50 |
| 1 plant - 2 GAL (each) | $ | 18.00 |
| 2-6 plants - 2 GAL (each) | $ | 16.50 |
| 7+ plants - 2 GAL (each) | $ | 14.00 |
We collect state sales tax on Texas orders, unless tax exemption paper work is submitted in advance. Sales outside Texas are not taxable.
We suspend shipping when our Crapemyrtles enter their dormant period, which usually happens in early November. We resume shipping when dormancy breaks in the spring - timing depends on weather conditions here in Fort Worth TX.
Where is Chadick Farms? How do I visit your nursery?
Chadick Farms is located in Fort Worth TX. Our nursery is also at our home. At this time we are an Internet-based nursery only, and therefore not open to the public.
Do you sell wholesale to landscapers, landscape designers, or other nurseries?
Yes, we do! We have healthy second year 2.3 gallon plants. If you have a Texas resale certificate and/or a nursery license we'll be happy to work with you. Contact us for availability - email or call 817-312-4583.
What is your guarantee or warranty?
We wish Chadick Farms could warranty your Crapemyrtle forever, but that's just not practical. We guarantee our plants will arrive at your doorstep alive and healthy. Upon plant delivery or within 30 days thereof, if you are dissatisfied for any reason, we will replace the plant or refund your purchase price.
We guarantee Chadick Farms Crapemyrtles are true to variety and name. Our container-grown Crapemyrtles are inspected by the Texas Department of Agriculture, insuring that we sell only healthy, disease-free plants.
As with any living plant, there can be many factors that will cause a Crapemyrtle to perform poorly. Crapemyrtles are an extremely tough shrub, however, we can not guarantee specific results due to factors beyond our control. Improper planting, poor drainage and neglect are examples of causes of plant failure. Weather is always a factor beyond our control.
Bottom line is, if in doubt, email or call us. We are happy to work out a solution with you because we want you to love your Chadick Farms Crapemyrtles.
My plants were damaged in transit - what do I do now?
Just email or give us a call and we'll take care of you.
Is it Crape Myrtle or Crepe Myrtle? What about Crapemyrtle?
According to "Standardized Plant Names" (Kelsey, Harlan P. 1942) and the United States National Arboretum, the correct name and spelling is Crapemyrtle. We prefer to use Crapemyrtle, in accordance with published horticultural references.
Will a Crapemyrtle throw seeds everywhere and take over my yard?
No. Virtually all Crapemyrtles on the market today are hybrids, and hybrids produce very few viable seeds. If you do find a seedling, just pull it up (if it's unwanted). For any hybrid plant, remember that the offspring rarely look like the parent plant.
How do I choose the right Crapemyrtle?
First, make sure your intended site receives a daily minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight. Crapemyrtles will survive with less than full sunlight, but bloom quantity and quality will be diminished. Next, determine the mature plant size(s) for your site - it's critical that you choose a variety that grows only as tall as you want. Forgetting this single detail will almost always result in your unhappiness with any plant. After you've determined these two essentials, you only need to choose the variety you like.
If your choice is a Crapemyrtle for a hanging basket or container, the mature size vs. location doesn't matter since you can move your plant as needed or desired.
Unless you know specifically which Crapemyrtle variety you want, buy your Crapemyrtle when it's blooming. Also, make sure you get what you want by purchasing named and labeled plants from a reputable grower.
When is the best time to plant my Crapemyrtle?
Here in the blazing hot South, the best time to plant nearly all woody plants is in October or November. Of course, that isn't always practical. You can plant at any time, but you must be prepared to hand-water every couple of days until the plant is established, specifically during the hot, dry summer months. Even if you plant in late fall, your woody plants will require a regular watering schedule their first year. After the first summer, you can generally rely on rainfall and occasional supplemental watering.
If you are moving your Crapemyrtle from a hanging basket to your landscape, treat it like a new plant. Move it in October or November if possible, and keep it watered through its first summer.
How and when can I move a Crapemyrtle?
Increase any woody plant's chance of survival by moving it when the plant is dormant. Several months before you plan to move your Crapemyrtle, root prune it - that is, cut through the ground with a sharpshooter shovel, pushing the shovel as deep as you can in a circle all around the the plant, leaving a few inches between your cuts. Make your cuts appropriately, giving the shrub a large enough root ball to support its foliage.
The rule of thumb is to make your cut allowing 12" for each 1" of trunk diameter (measured at 6" from the ground), which gets a little confusing when you're dealing with a shrub with multiple trunks. For a medium-sized shrub, an 18 - 24" root ball is probably adequate. For smaller shrubs just cut at the drip line. Make your cuts, then leave it be.
You've already chosen a better location for this Crapemyrtle, right? On moving day, go ahead and dig the hole for the incoming plant. Make it a little bigger, but not deeper than the root ball you're about to dig up. Go back to the previously root pruned Crapemyrtle and dig completely around the tree at the cuts you made when you root pruned, bringing up your plant with its nice-sized root ball.
Gently drop it into its new location, adjusting it to and fro until it's exactly the way you want. Add soil back into the space between the root ball and the side of the hole and water it in. Spread mulch over the bare soil and water occasionally over the winter, just as you do with your other plants. Odds are your Crapemyrtle will wake up in the spring and proceed as if it had never been moved.
When should I prune my Crapemyrtle?
Never. Really. Crapemyrtles don't need pruning unless you live in a region where they die back to the ground each winter. You're asking about shaping, right? About all that might be needed is periodic light trimming, such as removing a branch that's headed in the wrong direction. If your Crapemyrtle is lopsided, you can always trim it a bit to bring it into balance.
Crapemyrtles are shrubs - they naturally send up basal sprouts (new growth that springs forth from the base of the plant), that's what makes them different from a tree with its single trunk. If you think your Crapemyrtle is getting a little too "shrubby", it's OK to cut off some of these shoots.
Sometimes a miniature or dwarf Crapemyrtle will send out a giant shoot. This is a genetic hiccup, much like your cousin Doyle. Simply cut off the shoot at the base. If your Chadick Farms Crapemyrtle continues to misbehave in this way, give us a call and we'll work out a solution with you.
If you want your Crapemyrtle have the look of a multi-trunked tree, leave a few main trunks but cut off all the shoots, limbs and side growth to a certain height (often called "limbing up"). Limbing up any shrub is not a one-time thing, as long as you want the effect it's something you'll need to periodically touch up during each growing season. You'll be more pleased with the look if you start this process when your Crapemyrtle is fairly young. This look works best with the semi-dwarf and taller varieties, those with a mature height that exceeds 5'.
If you find yourself fighting the urge to prune your Crapemyrtle, it's probably the wrong size plant for that location. You might consider moving it and replacing it with a smaller variety.
If you live in a region where your Crapemyrtle dies back to the ground, then you can prune it. Just cut it all back to soil level and wait for foliage to reappear in the spring.
We get a lot of questions concerning spring trimming of spent seedpods and dead branch tips. The short answer is "it's not necessary" because new growth will soon cover any seedpods or dead tips. However, spending a little time checking over your Crapemyrtle is often a very good thing to do. A few minutes trimming will help you familiarize yourself with your Crapemyrtle so that you are in a better position to spot a problem if it arises.
Crape Murder - how do I stop the madness?
Crape Murder - Crapemyrtles that have been "topped" by a misinformed gardener, or by a landscaping company that provides year-round service (those employees have to be kept busy doing something). Very little can be done for Crapemyrtles after they've been butchered this way. If it's your plant, the most esthetically pleasing thing (not at first, but in the long run) to do is to cut all the trunks back level with the soil. As new growth appears, choose several of the most vigorous shoots and remove all the others. It'll take a couple of years, but your Crapemyrtle eventually will be beautiful again.
Where can I get a red Crapemyrtle?
Why do actual flower colors vary from the descriptions?
Currently there are only a few hybrids that are very close to a real red, such as Tightwad RedŽ, Victor and DynamiteŽ. Since there are no yellow Crapemyrtles in existence, all "true red" flowers are currently very deep cherry red. Horticulturists are constantly working to bring to market plants with different colors and growth habits, and a yellow Crapemyrtle is the holy grail.
In the plant descriptions on our Varieties pages, we tell you what we see in our gardens along with the horticultural description. Grab your CrayolaŽ Crayons for reference - we list the CrayolaŽ color closest to flower color in our gardens. Depending on soil chemistry, flower colors can vary somewhat so you should expect some shade differences in your own plants' blossoms.
To further complicate the color issue, flower colors vary depending on the amount of sunlight AND temperature. For example, under cloudy conditions the flowers of Tightwad RedŽ open pink (sometimes pale pink), then blossoms resume their normal red coloring when it becomes sunny again. Similarly, Raspberry SundaeŽ flowers become mostly raspberry red in hot weather, but show more white as temperatures cool.
Flower tint & color variations in combination with thousands of different computer monitor settings make it impossible to display a precisely-tinted photo. We make every effort to give you accurate descriptions of bloom colors, but please remember that this description is based on our opinion.
Why do other Crapemyrtles bloom earlier than mine?
Are you suffering from "Crapemyrtle Envy"?
Seriously, if you can't really tell a difference - as in the Crapemyrtles all get about the same amount of sun, the most likely issue is that yours is a later-blooming variety. Some Crapemyrtles begin blooming in early June, while others start producing blossoms as late as the end of July.
Another reason may be harsh pruning - this will delay blooming.
What is the dusty-white or gray coating on my Crapemyrtle leaves or buds?
What are the tiny yellowish-green insects on the leaves of my Crapemyrtle?
What about all this sticky stuff on the leaves?
Very few problems plague Crapemyrtles. Typical issues are Powdery Mildew and Crapemyrtle Aphids. Japanese Beetles are also a problem in some areas of the south.
The most common problem Crapemyrtles experience is Powdery Mildew. Powdery Mildew is not lethal but it stunts new growth, damages buds and blossoms, and is just plain ugly. Some Crapemyrtles varieties are more susceptible to Powdery Mildew than others (we note this resistance on each plant's detail page). Powdery Mildew thrives in shady, moist environments, so make sure your Crapemyrtle gets plenty of sun and has good air circulation. You might find that Powdery Mildew is a problem only when humidity is high and daytime temperatures are mild, which often occurs in the spring and fall.
If your Powdery Mildew gets out of control, it's easily controlled by spray application of Neem Oil, which is available at most gardening centers. Neem Oil is a natural product, and is not known to be harmful to mammals, birds, or to beneficial insects such as honeybees and ladybugs. For best results, follow the instructions on the Neem Oil label.
Ah, the Crapemyrtle Aphid. Other than being really homely, aphids are harmless and are a natural food source for predators such as lacewings and lacewing larvae, ladybugs and ladybug larvae, and parasitic wasps. As much as possible, these natural predators should be allowed to control aphid populations. Severe infestations are not lethal but can deform leaves, buds and flowers. A few Crapemyrtle Aphids are not cause for concern, but a severe infestation can be controlled with Neem Oil spray, applied according to label instructions.
 |
 |
 |
| Crapemyrtle Aphid | Lacewing Adult | Lacewing Eggs |
 |
 |
 |
| Ladybug Eggs | Ladybug Larva | Ladybug Pupa |
Japanese Beetles are a problem in some areas of the south, and not others. Multiple approaches are necessary for controlling Japanese beetles. Adults can be removed by handpicking (yuck), or lured to Japanese beetle traps. Keep traps at least 50 feet from your Crapemyrtles or you may create more of a problem by attracting them to the area. Milky Spore, Bacillus popilliae, is a naturally-occurring bacterium that's effective against Japanese beetle grubs or larvae. Milky Spore is available at most gardening centers.
The sticky liquid aphids excrete is called honeydew, which is a food source for wasps and ants. I know wasps scare the pants off you, but they're voracious predators of spiders and caterpillars. The easiest way to deal with too much honeydew is to occasionally rinse your Crapemyrtle with the water hose. In humid conditions, excess honeydew becomes a host food for Sooty Mold - a furry gray coating that won't hurt your plant but is quite disgusting. Sooty Mold is a good reason to make an attempt to control aphid infestations if natural predators are falling down on the job.
Without using pesticides, how do I control unwanted insect pests in my yard?
If you've always killed everything with more than two legs by spraying, dusting and broadcasting poisons, just stop. It will take a while for the pesticides to dissipate by partial decomposition, and washing off your plants and through your soil with rainfall and normal irrigation. Unfortunately, poisons that don't naturally degrade just won't "disappear" - they eventually find their way into groundwater, streams, creeks, rivers, oceans, and into the food chain.
You cannot keep every insect out of your garden. Use this knowledge to your advantage by creating an environment that welcomes a diverse predator/prey population. While your little slice of heaven will never be in perfect balance, for the most part predators will control the undesirables. If you like, you can introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings and praying mantises - all of which are available online or sometimes at your local garden center or feed store. (Ladybugs are sold alive in little mesh bags, while lacewings and praying mantises are sold as larvae in egg cases.) Also, when you bring home a bag of hungry ladybugs or that praying mantis egg case, keep in mind that those insects don't have any loyalty to you - almost immediately the vast majority of them will leave or otherwise disappear.
Natural predators will find your garden once you stop using poisons. Here's a photo of Deuce, a Spiny Lizard and one of our favorite four-legged residents here at Chadick Farms. So named because of his broken and improperly healed double tail, he's most likely father to the dozens of ravenous baby Spiny Lizards that patrol our gardens. Our toads, spiders and birds also help keep insect populations under control.
When you stop applying pesticides, you'll be surprised at how quickly natural predators will make themselves at home in your yard and garden.
What type of fertilizer should I use on my Crapemyrtle?
Crapemyrtles bloom on new growth, so for in-ground shrubs apply a good quality time-release high-nitrogen lawn-type fertilizer (make sure that it does not contain a weed killer) in March, and again in mid-summer. You'll only need 1 or 2 tablespoons per plant initially, and follow the fertilizer application rate instructions as the plant matures. Scatter the fertilizer over the entire root zone, lightly work it into the soil surface and water deeply after each feeding. Fertilize ONLY in the spring and mid-summer, do not fertilize Crapemyrtles in the fall.
We recommend using slow-release or time-release "complete" fertilizers. A complete fertilizer contains Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium ("N-P-K" percentages are displayed as 19-5-9, or a similar number combination) plus trace minerals that are rarely mentioned on the label. If you miscalculate the application rate (within reason, of course) of time-release fertilizers, the probability of damaging your plants is minimized since the ingredients disperse gradually depending on soil moisture level and temperature.
During the growing season, hanging basket and container-grown Crapemyrtles will benefit from a small monthly serving of potted-plant fertilizer.
All plants respond to a little TLC, and Crapemyrtles are no exception. Regular watering will increase the number of blossoms, speed growth and increase overall health.
What happens to my Crapemyrtle in winter?
Crapemyrtles are deciduous - they lose their leaves and become dormant in the winter. They aren't dead, they're hibernating. When warm weather arrives, new leaves will appear and your Crapemyrtle will soon be lovelier than it was last year.
To check, grasp a twig and gently bend it. If it yields, the plant is dormant. If you were a little too aggressive when "gently bending" the twig and you broke it, look at the freshly-broken surfaces for a hint of green. A green interior means the branch is alive.
In the off chance that your Crapemyrtle dies, chances are it will just be the top growth and the roots will not be affected (this is called being "root hardy"). If the roots are alive, in the spring new growth will appear at the base of the plant. At any rate, be patient. When testing a twig, if it cracks and the interior is brown and obviously dry, the top growth is dead - BUT don't give up on it yet. Cut the dead branches down to soil level and wait a little while for new growth.
Be sure to keep all your plants watered during the winter, Crapemyrtles included. When temperatures dip below freezing, a plant with dry roots is at risk for permanent damage or death. You don't want to keep your plants drenched in winter, just keep the soil slightly moist, not letting it dry out completely.
What do I do with my hanging basket or container-grown Crapemyrtle in winter?
Leave your hanging basket or container-grown Crapemyrtle outside until after the first freeze. Once the leaves wither and your Crapemyrtle is dormant, move it into a cool location such as a covered porch or your garage. Water your Crapemyrtle occasionally, keeping it on the dry side, but don't allow the soil to dry out completely.
Once temperatures are above freezing, move your hanging basket or container to a sunny location. Continue monitoring the soil, keeping it dry to the touch but not letting it dry completely. When the temperature is right, new leaves will appear on your Crapemyrtle and you can resume your normal care routine.
On your Varieties page, why do you give minimum and maximum mature plant height?
If you live in an area where your Crapemyrtle is killed to the ground every winter, over a summer it will most likely only reach the lower range of its height. On the other hand, if you live in an area where the shrubs go dormant over the winter, over the course of a few years your Crapemyrtle will attain heights in the upper range.
If you give your Crapemyrtle more than minimal care, you'll be rewarded with increased blooms and your shrub will attain it's maximum height sooner than if it was left to survive on its own. Regular watering and appropriate fertilizing enhances the health and appearance of all plants.
I think my Crapemyrtle might be dead - what next?
Let's see if it's really dead by testing a few branches. Grasp a twig and gently bend it. If it yields, your plant is not dead. If you accidentally break the branch when "gently bending" it, look at the freshly-broken surfaces for a hint of green. A green interior means the branch is alive. If the twig breaks and the interior is dry and brown, that branch is dead, so check a few more branches. If you determine that the plant is truly dead, then cut it back to soil level and give it a chance - wait a bit and hopefully new foliage will begin growing from the roots.
More than once I've been convinced that a Crapemyrtle was dead, but to my delight, new leaves appeared when I least expected them, and the plant never looked back.
